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A guide to modern cookery by Auguste Escoffier

By Auguste Escoffier

If the paintings of Cookery in all its branches weren't under-
going a technique of evolution, and if its canons will be once
and for ever fastened, as are these of yes medical operations
and mathematical approaches, the current paintings may have no
raison d'etre; inasmuch as there exist already numerous excellent
culinary text-books within the English language. yet everything
is so volatile in those instances of growth at any fee, and social
customs and strategies of lifestyles regulate so swiftly, few years
now suffice to alter thoroughly the face of usages which at
their inception bade reasonable to survive the age — so enthusiastically
were they welcomed via the public.

In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it really is but
twenty years in the past because the ancestral English customs begun to
make method prior to the more recent tools, and we needs to glance to the
great impetus given to traveling by means of steam traction and naviga-
tion, in an effort to account for the sluggish yet unquestionable
revolution.

In the wake of the call for got here the provision. Palatial hotels
were equipped, luxurious eating places have been opened, either one of which
offered their shoppers luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such
establishments.

Modern society reduced in size the behavior of engaging of light
suppers in those areas, after the theatres of the Metropolis
had closed; and the well-to-do started to flock to them on
Sundays, on the way to supply their servants the necessary weekly
rest. And, in view that eating places let of staring at and of being
observed, when you consider that they're eminently tailored to the displaying of
magnificent attire, it used to be no longer lengthy sooner than they entered into
the lifetime of Fortune's favourites.

But those new-fangled conduct needed to be met via novel methods
of Cookery — ^better tailored to the actual atmosphere in
which they have been to be practised. The admirable productions
popularised by means of the outdated Masters of the Culinary artwork of the pre-

vi PREFACE

ceding Century didn't turn into the sunshine and extra frivolous
atmosphere of eating places ; have been, in truth, ill-suited to the brisk
waiters, and their shoppers who basically had eyes for one another.

The pompous splendour of these bygone dinners, served in
the majestic dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, through liveried
footmen, was once half and parcel of the etiquette of Courts and
lordly mansions.

It is eminently suited for kingdom dinners, that are in sooth
veritable ceremonies, owning their ritual, traditions, and —
one may well even say — their excessive clergymen ; however it is an insignificant hin-
drance to the fashionable, fast carrier. The advanced and
sometimes heavy menus will be unwelcome to the hyper-
critical appetites so universal these days; as a result the necessity of a
radical switch not just within the culinary arrangements themselves,
but within the preparations of the menus, and the service.

Circumstances ordained that I might be one of many movers
in this revolution, and i may still deal with the kitchens of
two institutions that have performed such a lot to deliver it about.
I for that reason enterprise to believe publication containing a record
of all of the adjustments that have come into being in kitchen paintings —
changes whereof i'm in a good half author^may have some
chance of an outstanding reception by the hands of the general public, i.e.

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Additional resources for A guide to modern cookery

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One hour and a half would suffice to cook it and to extract all of the fire until the stock is — its juice. Whether brown or white, stock should never be salted, because it is never served in its original state. It is either reduced in order to make glazes or sauces in which case the concentration answers the purpose of seasoning or else it is — — GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY lo to cook meat which miist be salted before being cooked, and which, therefore, imparts the necessary salt to its surrounding liquor.

Am not partial to garnishing Velout^ Sauce with carrots, an onion with a clove stuck into it, and a faggot, as many do. The stock should be sufficiently fragrant of itself, without requiring the addition of anything beyond the usual condiments. The only exception I should make would be for I mushroom parings, even though to replace these in kitchens by mushroom where it is it is preferable, liquor. But used for other purposes often imperative to have recourse to parings in may when possible, always scarce wherefore it is this is ; its stead.

I lb. of white roux. 4J quarts of boiling milk. j lb. of lean veal. ette, i I — i pinch of mignonand grated nutmeg, and § oz. of salt, small sprig of thyme. minced onion. Preparation. Pour the boiling milk on the roux, which should be almost cold, and whisk it well so as to avoid lumps. Let it boil, then cook on the side of the fire. Meanwhile the lean veal should have been cut into small cubes, and fried with butter in a saucepan, together with the minced onion. When the veal has stiffened without becoming coloured, it is added to the Bechamel, together with salt and the other aroLet the sauce stew for about one hour in all, and then matics.

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